Majorca - the unexplored corner.
We'd decided to pick a family orientated hotel in Costa Da Calma, near to Santa Ponsa. A chilled out and secluded area that allowed us some privacy but also close enough to be able to get out and about. As my daughters first words most mornings are "what are we doing today", this was quite important. Myself and my wife have travelled the world as well before our beautiful daughters arrived and so we are still very keen to explore, all be it with a skip worth of nappies and baby wipes in tow. So sitting on a beach for 10 days was not going to cut it for our overactive family unit.
It was with this in mind that we'd heard about a scenic train from Palma that sounded just about plausible for our band of adventurers who need a nap every hour. A short taxi ride from the resorts of the south and you are at Palma train station, Grand Central it is not, but a quaint and relaxed tourist office awaits as you go and await the next train. They are pretty regular but make sure you check the schedule for returning as they are a bit staggered and we decided a one way and taxi back was the best for our/all of Majorca’s peace of mind.
The train carriages resemble something out of a Thomas the Tank engine cartoon (sorry my metaphors can only be children’s story/TV related now), and Annie and Clarabelle and their friends clattered along gently across the plains of Majorca towards the jagged peaks in the north west of the island. The scenery really is a lot more dramatic than I'd imagined and was truly beautiful with the cloudless sky as a back drop. We trundled up to the base of the mountains and wound our way through a few tunnels and out into verdant valleys of olive and lemon trees. Quiet villages and villas clung to the hills watching our relaxed progress down the valley and through the passes.
The end of the line is a gorgeous town in the shade of the Tramuntana mountains called Soller, with a quintessentially Spanish plaza and an old church. Locals sip coffee and while away the days as tourists dot in and out of boutiques. But the main reason for the train trip, via a short tram ride is Port De Soller, the marina and bay for the rich and famous, and us!
The tram again from a bygone age trundles along the shoreline, past contemporary hotels and old tavernas, past sailing boats and super yachts that wouldn't look out of place in Monaco for the Grand Prix. This place oozes class and I can't believe I'd never heard of it. A lovely sandy beach with the backdrop of cloud shrouded mountains makes for a vista I really would never have expected in Majorca. One of the top hotels in the country let alone on Majorca is situated just around the bay, as well as more affordable villas and hotels closer to the marina itself. When I come back I'm staying here for sure, it’s awesome - and there is a playpark near the tram stop - winner!
As mentioned before, the schedule on the train meant that to spend a decent amount of time we could either leave at 2pm or 6pm, so given a guaranteed meltdown was assured if we hung about till 6pm, we opted for a taxi (about €50 back to Santa Ponsa). The train is pretty much the same for a return so it’s more expensive, but we have a policy of where possible, if it’s easier it’s the choice we make! Anyway, the road back from Port De Soller goes through a big tunnel and onto the motorway, exciting eh? Luckily for us the tunnel was closed. How would we get home we asked the taxi driver in what can only be described as English with a Spanish accent? He advised us that the coastal road was beautiful and while it would take 10 minutes longer, it was better than waiting for the tunnel to open again. Seeing the fury in our children’s eyes at being delayed for 5 seconds we decided to get moving. And I am so happy this chance happening occurred.
The coastal route is stunning, winding up and up into the mountains with views down over secluded homes with terracotta tiles on their roofs, private pools gave views down the hundreds of metres to the azure sea below. But it’s the town of Deia and its neighbour Valdemossa that captured our hearts.
If you'd said we were in Tuscany I'd have believed you. The view as you arrive outside of Deia is like arriving at the gates of Rohan (apologies I like Lord of Rings), a hill piled high with old buildings and narrow streets rises to a citadel with a clock tower on the peak, surrounded on all sides by rugged arid mountains. Beautiful is the word that doesn't even come close, the history of both places is forged around artisans and musicians staking their claims to peace and solitude. And while individuals like Chopin and Borges spent much time in the villages I can understand why. Peace and restfulness abound in both places and again with Port De Soller I can't think of three places that are further away from my ridiculous pre-conception of Majorca than these. Not a British pub or Sunday roast in site, thank goodness.
And only about 30 minutes away from the majority of the South Coast resorts so easily reached either as a day trip or as an interesting twin centre.
I'll be back with the Bishop family and next time we'll be staying in a secluded bay and in the mountains of Majorca.