The Canadian Rockies Between Seasons
The route and the weather
I visited last October and got far more than I planned. After starting in warm and sunny Calgary for a couple of nights I headed west to beautiful Banff where some autumnal leaves were still clinging to the trees. A slight detour took me to Emerald Lake for my next stop. After seeing many stunning photos, I wanted to experience it for myself, although I hadn’t anticipated the 15cm of snow that fell overnight, closing the Icefields Parkway, which was my quickest route to Jasper.
The Parkway, which runs 180 miles north from Banff to Jasper, has its own weather patterns, with the altitude reaching over 2000m in places. The mountains seem to trap the clouds, so one moment you’re driving in sunshine and the next through a snow storm. Eventually the snow ploughs cleared the road and I reached Jasper in time to experience the Dark Sky Festival, before heading back to Calgary and home.
Highlights
The Calgary Tower is a great place to enjoy brunch and the views from Sky 360 revolving restaurant – the wide plains in one direction and the Rockies on the horizon in the other. The observation deck ticket is included with your meal, making it good value.
A very walkable city, Calgary is worthy of a day to explore the many pieces of art and sculpture dotted around the streets and enjoy a walk along the Bow River in Prince’s Park, to the unusual architecture of the Peace Bridge.
Driving between each location is one of the main highlights, enjoying the scenery, looking for wildlife and stopping to stretch your legs with a walk at places such as Ghost Lake or Johnston Canyon.
In Banff, the gondola takes you to the top of Sulphur Mountain with a boardwalk leading to the summit and a panoramic view of the mountain ranges surrounding you. At the bottom of the gondola station are the Hot Springs, and on the outskirts of town Lake Minnewanka is great for a cruise, if the boats haven’t stopped for winter. Pause at Lake Louise to photograph the iconic and usually turquoise water, which is much less turquoise at this time of year, although crystal clear. Further up the Parkway, take a walk to the highest point at Bow Summit, for one of the best views you will see – Peyto Lake.
The Colombia Icefield and the Skywalk are between Lake Louise and Jasper. These close in early October for the winter, so plan your dates well if you don’t want to miss them.
Designated a Dark Sky Preserve in 2011, Jasper National Park is one of the best places to try to see the Milky Way, yet you do need clear nights. Sadly, I didn’t have these due to the early snowfall, although the Northern Lights were seen several times at 2am – just not by me!
It’s not all about the night. During the day you could take a kayak out on one of the lakes, hire a mountain bike, or drive out to Medicine Lake and Maligne Lake – the latter looking like a winter wonderland on this occasion. Look out for moose and deer searching for food at the roadside. Enjoy a walk at Maligne Canyon on the way back, before taking the SkyTram up Whistler Mountain for a view of the sunset.
Accommodation
The iconic Fairmont Palliser, Calgary has been welcoming guests since 1914. It’s location close to the Calgary Tower and within walking distance of Prince’s Island Park make it a comfortable base to explore the city.
Brewster’s Mountain Lodge, Banff is a cosy hotel with hand crafted log furnishings and a fireplace in the lobby. Their included continental breakfast really sets you up for the day.
Emerald Lake Lodge in Yoho National Park is stunning. Even when the cloud cover is low, due to the snow, it still has a magical feel. The rooms have their own fireplaces and I highly recommend the upgrade to a lakeview. The only downside is that it’s very popular for day trippers, with coachloads arriving by 9.30am, although usually leaving by nightfall.
Marmot Lodge in Jasper is perfectly placed for the Dark Sky Festival as the Jasper Planetarium is on-site. The rooms are motel style, large and recently re-furbished. It’s a 15minute walk to the town centre and a choice of restaurants.
The total distance covered was 670 miles in 9 days.