In July, 2006 I spent 17 wonderful days on a driving tour of Great Britain. I’d snagged a cheap introductory fare ticket on MAXjet, a now defunct – but really terrific all business-class airline from JFK to London Stansted airport.
My first major obstacle was learning how to drive my rental car on the “wrong” side of the road! Initially I was completely thrown by the experience, but then had a very strong talking to myself to just “shape up and learn it!”, and within a half-hour everything seemed quite normal. Thanks to a friend’s recommendation to put a large duct-tape left-facing arrow on the dashboard, I always remembered to keep left, and had none of my anticipated accidents when making a turn and ending up in on-coming traffic. And, in no time at all, I grew to actually love the “roundabouts” traffic circles than predominate English roadways.
The only thing I never really mastered on this trip was the unexpected heat. Now, as a resident of Virginia, I’m very accustomed to hot, muggy summers. But we’re very spoiled, with universal AC at home. The two weeks I was in England the temperature was 90+ degrees Fahrenheit every day, and without cooling in any of my accommodations, nor my car, I really suffered. One night, in northern Durham, my hotel room was 104 degrees when I got in the room, and never really cooled off. Luckily the gorgeous countryside made up for it!
I spent my first week in an apartment in Lancaster, just south of the English Lake District. From this homebase, I drove small country lanes and back roads throughout the region, and really fell in love with the Yorkshire Dales. The first time I came over a hill, and saw the Swale Dale Valley spread before me, I had to stop the car and just stare in awe at the beauty! Throughout my life’s travels, I don’t think I’ve ever seen something so peaceful and truly lovely.
Another highpoint of this week was touring some of the region’s historic homes and castles. I loved Leven’s fabulous topiary gardens, and climbed all over Bolton Castle – one of Mary Queen of Scots prisons during her years in England. I also spent a relaxing cruise on Lake Windermere, and spent a fun evening in Blackpool – a classic English coastal resort town on the Irish Sea. And it was fun to walk the ancient Roman ruins of Hadrian's Wall.
Next, I drove up to Edinburgh, and was amazed that the heat had followed me this far north. Edinburgh’s a fascinating and lively city, split between the historic Royal Mile stretch of Old Town, and the magnificent Georgian architecture of what’s today called New Town. Since it was summer, the sun didn’t set until almost 11pm, which made for pleasant evenings at the sidewalk café across from my hotel. And I loved touring the royal yacht Britannia, now permanently docked in nearby Leith on the Firth of Forth. I remember seeing the Queen sailing on it back in the late 1950’s, at the opening of the St. Lawrence Seaway, and was impressed with how unassuming her private spaces were, once I was able to tour the vessel.
Other highlights of this trip were the three Evensong services I experienced at Coventry, Durham and York’s cathedrals. I also loved touring the historic homes used in many films – such as Yorkshire’s Howard Castle (from Brideshead Revisited) and Chatsworth, where Pride and Prejudice was shot in the Peak District. And, while in Derbyshire, I absolutely fell in love with the delicious Bakewell Puddings – and have since imported these pastries back home to the USA via internet orders.
These are only a few of my favorite memories of this wonderful journey, and I enjoy reliving them every time I plan a new client’s trip through the English countryside. For such a small country, it’s certainly packed with countless amazing destinations.